Draught-proofing a door typically costs between £25 and £200 and can reduce annual heating bills by up to £90
If you feel a cold breeze around your front or back door, you are losing heat and paying for it. Draught-proofing is one of the simplest and most cost-effective ways to improve home energy efficiency. The average cost of DIY draught-proofing materials for a single door is £25–£60, while professional installation ranges from £100–£200 (Energy Saving Trust, 2026).
According to the Energy Saving Trust, draught-proofing an entire home can save UK households £90–£120 per year on heating bills (Energy Saving Trust, 2026). Savings depend on the size and type of door, existing insulation, and whether the home is a flat or a house. The EST notes that draught-proofing is one of the most cost-effective energy-saving measures, paying for itself within one to two years for DIY work (Energy Saving Trust, 2026).
Draught-proofing a door reduces heat loss by up to 50 percent
The UK government’s Department for Energy Security and Net Zero (DESNZ) states that draughts account for 15–20% of heat loss in an average home (DESNZ, 2026). For a single external door, proper draught-proofing can cut heat loss by up to 50%, according to the Energy Saving Trust (Energy Saving Trust, 2026).
This reduction is measured in kilowatt-hours (kWh) saved per year; EST estimates a typical door draught-proofing saves 100–200 kWh annually (Energy Saving Trust, 2026). The actual percentage depends on the door’s construction (wood, uPVC, composite) and the condition of existing seals. A wooden door with warped frames will benefit more than a composite door with intact factory seals.
Quick numbers typical costs, savings, and payback periods for door draught-proofing
| Measure | Typical Value (UK, 2026) | Source |
|---|---|---|
| DIY material cost | £25–£60 | EST, DIY retailer price surveys |
| Professional installation cost | £100–£200 | Checkatrade, EST |
| Annual energy saving per door | £25–£90 | EST |
| Annual kWh saved per door | 100–200 kWh | EST, DESNZ |
| Payback period (DIY) | 1–2 years | EST |
| Payback period (professional) | 2–4 years | EST |
The direct answer draught-proofing a door means sealing gaps around the frame, under the bottom, and at the threshold
Draught-proofing involves applying weatherstripping, seals, or brushes to stop air leaking around the door. The three main areas to seal are the perimeter (sides and top), the bottom (sweep or brush), and the threshold (if present). Common materials include foam tape, rubber seals, brush strips, and door sweeps; each suits different gap sizes and door types.
For a typical external door, the total gap area is equivalent to a 10 cm x 10 cm hole, according to the Energy Saving Trust (Energy Saving Trust, 2026). This is a surprisingly large opening that lets warm air escape and cold air enter constantly during winter months.
Eligibility for draught-proofing grants and financial support in 2026
The Great British Insulation Scheme closed on 31 March 2026. It funded insulation measures only and never covered windows or glazing. The Energy Company Obligation (ECO4) scheme also includes draught-proofing as a qualifying measure for households receiving certain benefits or with low energy ratings.
Homeowners with an Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) rating of D, E, F, or G may qualify for support under ECO4, per OFGEM guidelines. Private tenants and landlords can apply through the same schemes, but the property must meet eligibility criteria. The Great British Insulation Scheme closed on 31 March 2026. It funded insulation measures only and never covered windows or glazing.
How to verify an installer or choose the right certification (MCS, TrustMark, Gas Safe, FENSA, NICEIC/NAPIT)
For draught-proofing, the installer does not require MCS or Gas Safe registration; these are for heating or renewable systems. TrustMark is the key certification for draught-proofing installers under government schemes; check the TrustMark website for registered tradespeople.
For doors with integrated glazing, FENSA registration may be relevant if replacing the door unit. DIY draught-proofing does not require any certification; only professional installation under schemes like GBIS or ECO4 requires a TrustMark-registered installer. Always verify an installer’s certification via the relevant register (e.g., TrustMark, FENSA) before hiring.
Step-by-step method how to draught-proof a door yourself in 30 minutes
Step 1: Measure the perimeter of the door frame and the gap at the bottom. Step 2: Choose materials: foam tape for gaps under 5 mm, rubber seals for 5–10 mm, brush strips for uneven gaps. Step 3: Clean the door frame surface thoroughly; apply weatherstripping to the sides and top, pressing firmly.
Step 4: Install a door sweep or brush strip at the bottom. This ensures it contacts the threshold or floor. Step 5: Test by closing the door and checking for remaining draughts; adjust or replace seals as needed. The Energy Saving Trust provides detailed step-by-step guidance, and Which? consumer advice offers independent product recommendations for materials (Energy Saving Trust, 2026).
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